Install details for Painless Wiring Cirkit Boss #70207.
I wanted to add some additional electrical accessories and didn't want to monkey around with the factory wiring. In my experience, electrical problems in cars are the most frustrating and possibly dangerous ones to go unchecked. I figured the only way to go was with a quality product that would give me some dedicated circuits. This exchange sums it up best... The guy that I bought it from at my local Truck Accessory store asked "You buyin' this 'cause you burnt som'thin up?". Me: "Nope, I'm buyin' it so I won't burnt som'thin up."
The kit comes with a fuse block with a waterproof cover, a circuit breaker that installs inline between the fuse block and the battery, all wiring, and all mounting screws, etc. Once installed, you get 7 additional total dedicated circuits - 3 constant hot and 4 switched hot. All new circuits are 20amps each. I paid $70 for the kit, but it can be found for less on the 'net.
The install is pretty straightforward. Remember to disconnect the battery any time you are doing electrical work. On airbag equipped vehicles, it's recommended to leave it disconnected for a few min and then step on the brakes or flip the lights on to drain any residiual juice out of the system. The most difficult part is finding a location for the fuse block. I saw where a couple of Jeepers had installed it on the passenger fenderwell where the stock airbox normally sits. Since I'm still using the stock airbox, this wasn't a great option for me. Note: I removed the stock airbox to do the install and it is not present in any of these photos. I ended up mounting the new fuse block behind the passenger side headlight, just ahead of the factory airbox (fig. 1). Once I had mounted the aux block (fig. 2), I needed to find a good spot for the circuit breaker. I wanted this as close to the battery as possible and was able to find a good location between the battery and the airbox (fig. 3). Once I had the two components mounted, I bundled the wiring running from the fuse block into some plastic loom to neaten it up. Using the loom and some wire ties, I was able to route it under the factory fuse block (fig. 4). To get power to the new block, I ran the power wire to the output side of the circuit breaker, measured, cut, spliced a wire ring on, and tightened onto the circuit breaker. From here, I measured a short run of the remaining power wire, cut, and spliced the remaining wire rings on. The smaller one mounts to the hot side (copper colored post) for the circuit breaker and the larger ring goes directly to the positive battery terminal (fig. 5). I then looked for a grommet that would allow me to run the wires through the firewall, but no such luck. I ended up drilling a 3/4" hole through the firewall below the battery (removed in pics) near the fender. This hole enters the tub under the dash but is still accessible for tapping the new leads. Once the hole was cut I painted it with touch up paint and covered the edges with duct tape once dry (fig. 6). All the wires are still in the plastic loom where it goes through the firewall, so I'm not too concerned with a short here. The leads are all fused on the engine side of the firewall and I'll be sure to fuse everything inside the tub as well (items added will likely have a lower amp fuse rating than the 20amps the fuse box provides). Now that I have the wiring routed, I went back and painted the circuit breaker terminals with 2 coats of liquid electrical tape since one of the posts will always be hot (fig. 7). This will help keep the sparks down if I ever hit it while wrenching... I also pulled the fuses on the circuits that are not currently in use. All the wiring and the battery are hooked back up at this point and everything was tested with a multimeter. No shorts and 12.4v on the hot leads and the other 4 leads go hot with the ignition switch in the accessory on On position. I don't have a shot of it, but I got my switched power from the unused switched lead found behind the glove box. Looking at my glove box fuse panel it was located above and to the left of the panel behind the glovebox. The blue wire is switched power and the red lead is always hot. Both wires have nice little tags on them telling you what they are. Once everything was tested and found to be working properly, I did a double check on my wiring looms to make sure they wouldn't catch or get crimped anywhere (fig. 8). One last check on the wiring going through the firewall (fig. 9), and it was time to clean up. Cost $100 - $70 for Waterproof Cirkit Boss and $30 in wire loom, paint on electrical tape, etc. from Home Depot; peace of mind knowing I'm less likely to burn my Jeep up with a stupid electrical add-on - priceless; time to install 2.5 hours.
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